Siracusa, Sicily. Photographs by John Peyton Cooke.

Siracusa, Sicily (Italy)
All photographs by John Peyton Cooke, copyright © 2003 by John Peyton Cooke. All rights reserved.

Composite photo showing breadth of the ancient Greek Theater at Siracusa, Sicily (ancient Syracuse), where among other great works THE PERSIANS by Aeschylus was performed, staged by Aeschylus himself. The center of social and cultural life in Syracuse, it could accommodate an audience of 15,000.

Mary Renault's novel THE MASK OF APOLLO is largely set in ancient Syracuse in the age of Dionysius II (367-356, 346-344 BC). Its focus is on the ancient Greek theater and the politics of the day and features memorable appearances by the Syracusan politician Dion and his teacher, the Athenian philospher Plato. But the best thing about the story is its unforgettable narrator, the fictional Greek actor Nikeratos, who is not only a three-dimensional character but probably more human than a lot of real people currently walking the earth. For anyone who visits Siracusa and has an active imagination, I highly recommend it!

The Basilica di San Giovanni, once the cathedral of Siracusa, was destroyed by the great 1693 earthquake and never rebuilt. The apse dates to the 7th century AD, though the rose window and other elements are medieval.	Here is a better view of the rose window of the Basilica di San Giovanni. The church was erected over the crypt of St. Marcian, first bishop of Siracusa, who was flogged to death by the Romans in 254 AD.
Entrance to the ruined Basilica di San Giovanni.	Ancient arches and a modern graffito at the Basilica di San Giovanni.
A glimpse into an ancient Roman bath near the entrance to the Parco Archeológico, in the Neapolis district.	A broad view of the Latomia del Paradiso, the vast marble quarry where slaves and enemies of the state labored (and died) in ancient Syracuse. After the Athenian fleet was defeated by Syracuse in 413 BC, the 7000 Athenians who survived were imprisoned in the quarries. A few months later, those few who still survived were still alive were sold off as slaves.
Ruined steps and foundation of the Ara di Ierone II, a 200-meter-long altar erected by Hieron II in the 3rd century BC to commemorate the achievements of Timoleon (343-337 BC).	A closer view of the huge steps at the base of the Ara di Ierone II. (Marble quarried by the slaves in nearby Latomie dei Paradiso.)
A small part of the altar and the broad ceremonial field below.	A better view of the length of the great altar. In the heyday of Greek Syracuse, up to 450 bulls were sacrified at once on the altar during the annual feast.
Another long view from the top of the altar.	Another view of the northern end of the Ara di Ierone II. Alas, photographs fail to do justice to the enormous scale of the structure.
A glimpse inside part of the quarry, near the Greek Theater, with Greek or Roman marble artifacts lined up (not sure what they're there for).	Some cypresses (?) growing at the edge of the Greek Theater.
View of the Greek Theater from the rear stage area. On the top of the hill behind the theater can be glimpsed the Nymphaeum.	Extending the view of the theater from the stage.
View from rear center stage.	View of the stage from the upper seats.
Backstage entrance.	View of the upper seats, looking toward the Nymphaeum.
Portions of the Nymphaeum, an artificial grotto that was fed by a natural spring and populated with marble statues (now safely stored in museums).	A cave in the Nymphaeum.
Another cave in the Nymphaeum.	View of the stage from the Nymphaeum (used in center of composite image of the Greek Theater at the top of the page). The Great Harbor of Siracusa is visible in the distance, beyond the trees.
The part of the Nymphaeum where the ancient spring still flows.	The ancient spring in the Nymphaeum.
View from within a cave at the Nymphaeum, with harbor in the distance.	Via dei Sepolcri (Street of the Tombs).
Timed self-photo of the photographer near the Via dei Sepolcri.	Another timed self-photo of the photographer near the tombs.
The Greek Theater as seen from the Via dei Sepolcri.	Upper tier of seats, looking toward the Nymphaeum.
View from the stage.	View of the full stage from the lower seats. Even in the time of Dionysius the Elder (405-367 BC), the theater was equipped with hydraulic apparatus that could raise and lower the wooden stage platform.
In the modern park set within the ancient marble quarry, the Latomia del Paradiso. This way lies the Orecchio di Dionisio.	A walkway hewn out of the rock by the former prisoners of the quarry.
The Orecchio di Dionisio (Ear of Dionysius), a long, sinuous cavern carved from the marble by quarry slaves in the era of Dionysius the Elder (405-367 BC).	View from approximately halfway within the Ear of Dionysius.
The Grotta dei Cordari, a deep work space used by the ropemakers of ancient Syracuse. The dampness of the cave helped prevent ropes from breaking during manufacture.	Promontory within the quarry.
Partial view of the Anfiteatro Romano, a Roman arena (3rd century AD).	Steps within the Anfiteatro Romano.
A wall around the upper rim of the Anfiteatro Romano.	Another partial view of the Anfiteatro Romano.
An entrance to the floor of the arena.	Steps leading out of the Anfiteatro Romano.
Ruined Roman column.	Remains of another Roman column.
Ruined Temple of Apollo (7th century BC), in the Doric style, on the island of Ortygia, the most ancient district of Siracusa. Also visible is the ruined wall of a Norman church that had incorporated the temple into its structure.	Portions of the base of the Temple of Apollo. Ancient Syracuse was founded by colonists from Corinth around 733 BC, and this was their earliest temple.
View of the base of the Temple of Apollo, with ruined Doric columns and ruined wall of the later Norman church.	Side view of temple columns and Norman church wall.
The oldest surviving gate on the island of Ortygia, which was formerly a walled fortress community unto itself.	View of the Small Harbor of Siracusa, looking west from the Fonte Aretusa on the island of Ortygia.
The waters of the Fonte Aretusa, a spring that was mentioned in the original instructions to the Corinthian settlers of Syracuse by the oracle at Delphi.	Entrance of an early Byzantine church from the 7th century AD. Syracuse was briefly the capital of the Byzantine Empire under Constans in 663 AD.
View of the southern coast of Ortygia, toward the Great Harbor where the Athenians lost their great naval battle against Syracuse in 443 BC. Those Athenians who were not slaughtered were imprisoned in the quarries and later sold off as slaves.	Extended view of the coast of Ortygia.
The rocky coast of Ortygia.	Another view of Ortygia and the Great Harbor.
A street on the island of Ortygia.	Another street on the island of Ortygia.
Rear/side view of the Duomo, which was accorded cathedral status in 640 AD. The Duomo has been built up and added to at many periods over the years and incorporates into its structure the ancient Temple of Athena (c. 530 BC).	Side view of the Duomo, revealing the Doric columns of the 6th-century BC Temple of Athena. The thick walls date from the Byzantine era.
One of the original Doric columns of the ancient Temple of Athena.	Side entrance to the Duomo.
Closer view of ancient columns incorporated into the Duomo walls.	Baroque façade of the Duomo, constructed after the previous façade collapsed in the earthquake of 1693.
Side view of the Duomo façade, facing on the Piazza del Duomo.	Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia. Santa Lucia is the patron saint of Siracusa.